Chapter 2

FOURTH EDITION.

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The comments herein given on the value of the "Jaros Hygienic Underwear" are acknowledgments on the practical accomplishment of scientific theories.

Prof. Mattieu Williams remarks:

"They present an interesting instance of how a logical effort to apply pure science to practical business may react in such a manner, that practical business shall become a beneficent contributor to pure science."

I tender thanks for the kind expressions herein embodied, all of which are given with due regard for the ethics of the profession.

Yours,

New York, 1890.

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Contents

Introductory Section

Hygienic Clothing

Philosophy of Clothing

Hygienic Underwear

Testimonials

Professors Von Pettenkofer, Parkes, and Buck, pronounced Hygienists, have contributed largely to establishing theories regarding clothing materials and their relations to health. These conclusions have led to a more general consideration thereof, in the therapeutics, as well as prophylaxis in medical practice.

Wool is regarded as deserving first consideration.

MAGNIFIED-WOOL FIBRE.

The fibres are cylindrical collections of numerous cells, and present each the appearance of a tube covered with epidermic scales which overlap each other. The zigzag markings are characteristic.

Cotton, for various reasons, may be regarded as next in importance, providing consideration be given to the manner of application, in combination with wool.

This is fully verified by Krieger's experiments.

MAGNIFIED-COTTON FIBRE.

SECTION SAME-COTTON FIBRE.

The fibres of cotton appear to be made up of flat, ribbon-shaped cells, thicker at the edges than in the middle. They are irregularly twisted, with a broad longitudinal cavity more or less well defined. There is frequently a kind of net-work striation apparent on the surface.

With regard to the comparative value of these fibres in application we refer here to the Tables of Mattieu Williams, page 31 of this Treatise. It remains, therefore, to have a material of these fibres so constructed that it will embody all scientific essentials. The first satisfactory material of the "Jaros Hygienic Wear" was laid before the Medical Profession in Chicago, November, 1884, and, guided by their suggestions, the "Wool Fleece Fabric" was so materially improved that, on January 4, 1886, L. L. McArthur, M.D., in a paper before the Chicago Medical Society, states: "Now, gentlemen, this device was a particularly 'happy one,' in that all the requirements of a truly hygienic wear are provided-porosity, warmth, absorbent powers and elasticity."

JAROS HYGIENIC MATERIAL-MAGNIFIED.

It will be seen that the material is a fleecy wool surface knitted into a cotton framework-resembling in many essential points a natural sheep's pelt. A prominent factor regarded in the claim for a reproduction of the natural pelt, is the preservation of the yolk which, if left in the wool, preserves its pliancy. It forms a kind of natural soap, consisting principally of potash salts with animal oil almost entirely soluble in cold water. Special care must therefore be taken in washing the wool, and this has been one of the latest results added to the success of the "Jaros Hygienic Material." The features warranting precaution in scouring wool, and advised by scientists, are based on the following possibilities: Excess of alkali has to be guarded against, since uncombined caustic acts energetically on the wool fibre, and is indeed a solvent of it. On this account soap solutions cannot be too carefully prepared to prevent making the wool brittle.

"A material of loose texture confining much air in its interstices is warmer than same amount of clothing material closely woven. Wool or cotton carded and spread out in the shape of a wadding and held, will make a warmer garment than the same quantity spun and woven, and similarly covered. This applies with force to underclothing."-"Ziemsen," Vol. XVIII.

PROPHYLAXIS.-In the consideration of a prophylactic measure this Underwear accomplishes the desideratum for protection.

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L. D. Rogers, A.M., M.D., in a paper, states:

A fabric, therefore, so constructed as to allow a layer of woolen fibre to lie between the skin and a layer of cotton fibre, and sufficiently open and loose as to contain the largest possible amount of air is the ideal. The Jaros Hygienic Underwear material, a new fabric, seems beautifully adapted to this end. A layer of woolen fibres, soft and fleecy, is firmly held on one side of and in the meshes of an exceeding porous cotton fabric, so that while one extremity of a fibre lies against the skin, the other is in contact with the cotton; thus admitting of the rapid transference of all dampness of perspiration to the cotton where it is retained, and consequently leaving no moisture next to the skin to absorb and diminish the heat of the body. The importance of this subject, and the possibilities of this new fabric for the prevention of colds, and their resultant diseases, can only be appreciated when we remember the simple fact that it is impossible to take a cold so long as a healthy condition of the skin, and an even temperature of the surface of the body, are maintained.

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REPORT OF C. B. HOLMES,

President Chicago City Railway Company.

""The Jaros Hygienic Underwear" has been in use with Conductors and Gripmen of this Company since November, 1885, having been recommended by the Company's Surgeon, Dr. D. A. K. Steele. We speak for the men in asserting that this underwear is considered the best possible protection against cold and changeable temperatures, which are especially characteristic of this latitude, and its use has resulted in great protection of health and a corresponding increased efficiency. With conductors, whose occupation necessarily prevents the wearing of a very heavy overcoat, it is of great advantage, and gripmen and drivers are enabled to thoroughly protect themselves in their exposed positions without an overplus of clothing, otherwise necessary."

These citations might be continued at great length, covering Reports of Police and Fire Departments in our large cities, and from many Railway Corporations and Physicians.

THERAPEUTICS.-In the Therapeutics of Medicine the Underwear is regarded as specially indicated in Rheumatism, Kidney Disease (Bright's), and Pulmonary Consumption.

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RHEUMATISM.

J. NEVINS HYDE, A. M., M. D., gives expression as follows:

"I have often employed the "Jaros Hygienic Underwear" in cases of muscular and other forms of rheumatism, and always with advantage to the patient. I have had knowledge of these undergarments sufficiently long to justify me in stating very positively that I regard them as a valuable means of protecting the surface of the body from the climatic changes to which it is much exposed."

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DAVID WARMAN, M. D.

"One of my patients wearing the "Jaros Hygienic Underwear" is a sufferer from muscular rheumatism, and since he donned the garments he has not had an attack, although the weather has just been of the kind to produce the disease."

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KIDNEY DISEASE.

BRIGHT'S DISEASE AND ALLIED AFFECTIONS OF THE KIDNEYS.

By CHARLES W. PURDY, M.D., Prof. of Genito-Urinary and Renal Diseases in the Chicago Polyclinic.

Chapter 1-Albuminuria.-Pages 54-55.

"The Skin.-* * * The most thorough protection to the skin is secured by the use of the Jaros Hygienic Wear, especially during the cold and damp season. * * * It will be seen that the cotton fabric secures a comparatively static condition of air next the skin, while the fleece wool combines the minimum radiation of heat from the body with the greatest attainable hydroscopic power, thus securing uniform dryness and warmth of the skin under various conditions of atmosphere. Dr. L. L. McArthur has demonstrated before the Chicago Medical Society the superiority of the Jaros Wear over all other fabrics for the purpose of protecting the skin against rapid changes of temperature and humidity, and my own experience with it altogether bears out his deduction."

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DR. I. N. DANFORTH, in January, 1886, states:

"I am much impressed with the value of the "Jaros Hygienic Wear," especially in renal and other diseases in which sudden changes of body temperature are hazardous. I think it will prove a valuable addition to our means of treating chronic, renal and other diseases in which full protection of the skin is all important."

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PULMONARY CONSUMPTION.

J. W. PRICE, M. D.

ADDRESS BEFORE ELMIRA ACADEMY OF MEDICINE, JULY, 1887.

Curability and Treatment of Pulmonary Consumption.

"The dress of the consumptive patient should be adapted to equalize the temperature of the body, so loose that it interferes in no way with the natural functions. The underclothing should be woolen, either lamb's wool or flannel. After an extended observation of the benefits derived from wearing the "Jaros Hygienic Underclothing,"-a wool fleece knit material of graded weights, adapted to the season, I believe it to be the best protective device yet known for these patients.

"They are excellent non-conductors of changes of the temperature, and at the same time absorb cutaneous moisture-two most important qualities."

Added to these statements are many more in this Treatise.

WOMEN'S COMBINATION SUIT.

Properly fitting garments are advised, and as an illustration of the results achieved, exact reproductions from life are given. The manner and style adopted, is in keeping with all other features accomplished. The matter of detail has been sufficiently thorough to embody also the point of seaming.

SEAM.

A special seam is used to overcome objections which caused discomfort and irritation. This seam is flat, soft, and lends to the garments the appearance of seamless wear, to which is added the perfect fit only reached in cut and sewed underwear.

MEN'S SUIT.

CONCLUSION.

In the summary of the results of practice with the "Jaros Hygienic Underwear" by U.S. Army Posts, U. S. Navy Pay Inspector's Department, Police and Fire Departments, Railway Companies, etc., etc., all scientific recommendations find verification.

Continuing the work of research and experiment, the aim is to aid the Profession in gaining the results desired with an ideal in clothing material.

CAUTION.-The success of the "Jaros Hygienic Wear," and the recognition earned, has prescribed utmost care in properly stamping the Wear to protect the Profession against possible misrepresentations.

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By L. L. McArthur, M. D.

Treasurer Medico-Legal Society, Chicago: Attending Physician Michael Riess and Mercy Hospitals, Chicago.

[Abstract of a paper read before the Chicago Medical Society on January 4, 1886.]

The object of clothing should be the promotion and maintenance of good health, together with a feeling of well-being under all atmospheric conditions.

Consideration of the subject naturally sub-divides itself into:

I. Materials.

II. Texture.

III. Form of clothing.

Chief among the materials used for clothing in the order of their respective merits are linen, cotton, silk, and wool, the latter being the best.

A few words as to these materials in the raw state:

Linen conducts heat better than cotton, silk or wool. It absorbs moisture and does not shrink. Cotton, also a vegetable fibre, which is hard, durable and does not shrink, has serious objections, in that it is very non-absorbent of moisture. It does not conduct heat as well as linen, but more rapidly than silk or wool.

Silk, an animal product, consisting of fine, smooth round fibrill?, having been in the liquid condition before leaving the body of the silkworm, possesses no central canal, and no oily coating. It is quite a good absorbent of moisture, ranking next to wool. At ordinary temperature it always contains between 9 and 12 per centum of moisture. In its sale or purchase, account is taken of the amount of moisture in order to protect the purchaser from paying silk prices for water.

Wool, the fleece of sheep, an animal fibre, whose function in nature has been two-fold, the protection from cold, and an aid to evaporation of cutaneous moisture, is admirably fitted as a material for clothing. It permits but slow radiation of heat, and absorbs moisture better than any other clothing material. It does this, according to Parkes, in two ways: 1st. By interposition between the fibres. 2d. By penetration into the central canal. His experiments led him to believe its hydroscopic powers double in proportion to its weight and quadruple for surface, as compared with cotton or linen. Perfectly dried wool has the power of absorbing 50 per centum, by weight, of water. Under ordinary conditions it contains 12 to 18 per centum.

Other things being equal, then woolen fabrics will best prevent too rapid radiation of heat; silk next, cotton third, linen fourth.

Wash-leather, buckskin and chamois-skin need not be considered, for one or all of the following reasons: Expense, poor provision for evaporation, poor washing qualities.

As absorbers of moisture, rank, respectively: wool, silk, linen and cotton.

The advantages of cotton over wool lie in its cheapness and non-shrinking qualities. If properly constructed, however, the advantageous properties of wool can be utilized without the shrinking by using a cotton framework, into the meshes of which the loose, raw fleece is worked.

That fabric will be best adapted for health, which combined with greatest porosity, possesses the least (a) conductivity, (b) greatest hydroscopic power, and (c) best shape.

By porosity is understood the freedom with which air can pass through the interstices of a fabric. Pettenkoffer's practical demonstrations with the following cloths, shows that if heavy flannel be taken as permitting 100 parts of air to pass, linen permitted 60.3 or 60 per centum; lambskin 50.7 or 50.7 per centum; silk fabric, heavy, 14.4 or 14.4 per centum; glove-leather 1.5 or 1.5 per centum.

The conclusion follows that porosity does not injure the powers of preventing radiation (it even increases it) for flannel, admittedly the warmest clothing, permits the freest circulation of air.

In consequence of the fact of a fabric's possessing great porosity, it contains in its interstices what might be called "residual air." Whether gases possess conductivity is open to discussion, but this is certain, that such power is very small. Could we by any means envelop the body in a layer of stationary air, we could reduce the heat-loss to a minimum. A striking example of the poor conductivity of stationary air is related by Dr. Kane, the Arctic explorer, who found that on perfectly still days they could withstand, without suffering, a temperature of-70 F.,[A] with ears and hands exposed, but the moment a breeze sprung up it became necessary to seek immediate shelter.

[A] 70° F, below Zero.

Although impossible to perfectly accomplish this, (i. e., the surrounding of body in a stationary envelope of air), that cloth or fabric which most nearly approximates this, other things being equal, will prove itself the warmest as well as best adapted for evaporation of cutaneous moisture. Such a nearly stationary air occurs naturally in the various pelts, and although in many the integument is visible beneath, yet they can withstand the most rigorous weather. Thus Krieger's experiments with tin cylinders containing hot water with two coverings of different materials, between which an interval of ? to ? inch was left, proved (after subtracting the amount due for conduction) the impediment to radiation by the second layer to be, viz: linen, 32; silk, 32; flannel, 29.

Thus showing that the stationary air, rather than the material out of which the second layer was made, was the main factor in preventing radiation.

He then experimented with single and double layers of the same material surrounding these cylinders, obtaining the following instructive results; the numbers representing the proportionate loss of heat through double to single layers, the losses through the single ones being taken at 100:

Double Stuff, ("Doppel Stoff") Fleece-lined cotton 69-76

Buck-skin 74-86

Flannel 86

Home-spun linen 91

Stout, extra heavy silk 94

From these results the conclusion is obvious that the substance and its weight are of less consequence, where radiation is in question, than its texture and volume. Believing that the explanation was due to the "residual air," experiments have been made with loose wadding, noting the rapidity of fall of temperature, on compressing the same wadding, when the fall was far more rapid.

Again, the loss of heat through a rabbit's fur being taken as 100, when shorn of its hair it rose to 190; and further destroying its porosity by a coating of gum-arabic, it rose to 296. (Dict. Hygiene.)

By greatest porosity best provision is made for the evaporation of perspiration, the quantity of which varies greatly under different conditions. In a day of rest the amount as determined by Seguin and Voit is 900 grams (about 1 quart). During exercise it may increase to quantities incredible, were the figures not furnished by the best of observers. For example: Dalton mentions its increase to 380 grams per hour! and Dr. Southwood Smith has seen it rise to 1,600 grams per hour during violent exercise in a heated atmosphere! Now, if a clothing possesses no porosity, e. g., the mackintosh, and rubber clothing generally, even without exercise, there would collect somewhere beneath it a quart of water, but if exercise be indulged in, the quantity may become large indeed; particularly after the atmosphere beneath has been surcharged with vapor, and evaporation ceases to occur from the surface, and with it the grateful cooling process. The French Government has not permitted its introduction into its army for such obvious reasons. Of course, for a short time during a shower they may and do prove useful; but I am convinced that many have incurred most serious injury, even death, by throwing off the rubber clothing after the inner clothing had become permeated with moisture, when the chilling, incident to the sudden increased evaporation, has resulted in some acute inflammation.

Moreover, the evaporation of the normal cutaneous moisture (with that of the lungs) requires 750 heat units or one-fifth of all the heat produced in the system. (Dalton.) Conservation of part of this loss contributes an equivalent amount of force to the organism, since heat and force are interchangeable terms. This can be done.

Under normal conditions evaporation of perspiration occurs in the "insensible," i. e., vapor state, but change of these conditions (increased heat, and moisture in the atmosphere, increased exercise, etc.,) causes it to collect upon the integument in the visible or sensible state, and unless conducted away, may chill the body. Prevention of such condensation will avoid such dangerous and deleterious influences. The cause of condensation is a lowering of the temperature. We have simply to maintain its temperature until at a perceptible distance from the body. This can be accomplished by a layer of loose wool, such as is hereafter described. The "residual air" having been once raised to the body temperature, it remains so, and the vapor does not assume the liquid state until meeting with the chilling influences in the outer layer of cloth.

Finally, bodies passing from the gaseous to the liquid state emit the heat-latent heat-which was essential to their assuming the gaseous condition. This occurring in the case of perspiration in the cloth interstices increases by just so much their warmth, in other words lessens the demand for heat production.

Before leaving the subject of texture, note should be made of the importance of its being of a loose nature. However great the hydroscopic power of a material in the raw state, if it be tightly woven that power is greatly diminished, or even quite destroyed. Hence the advantage of loosely knitted over tightly woven goods.

Important indeed is the proper fitting of clothing. However good the materials they may then not accomplish their purpose for the following reasons:

I. By close application to the skin certain materials acting as cutaneous stimulants, maintaining an active equable circulation. Wool possesses this property most markedly; even in some delicate skins proving an irritant. A very marked increase of oily matter is excreted over these areas where oil-glands exist in greatest abundance, i. e., mesial line of thorax, in front and behind; thus improving the flexibility of the skin.

II. By fitting neatly, chambers of air heated by the body are not with every change of position of the wearer forced out, as occurs in illy-fitting clothing. Upward currents of air naturally occur, and if permitted to exist carry off large amounts of caloric. Simple attention to these two facts reduced the death rate of the Wurtemburg Army Corps from 3.22 to 1.64, as compared with the other departments of the German Army.

The general application and advantages of such an ideal clothing to diseased conditions, it is needless for me to describe to a body of medical men; but particular references ought to be made to rheumatism and nephritis, ("kidney troubles.") To the former, because best provision is made for cutaneous elimination (always acid!) so essential in that disorder, in which there is so marked a diminution in the alkalinity of the blood; to the latter because sudden congestions are obviated in an organ already overworked, by preventing sudden chilling of the surface.

It only remains for me to call your attention to my accidentally finding such a clothing upon a patient of mine (Mr. Jaros), and the tests to which I have put it.

He described its history and manufacture as follows:

"While suffering from an attack of rheumatic sciatica in the Harz mountains, following a peasant's advice, I enveloped myself in loose lamb's fleece which he provided, and I experienced speedy relief. On reaching Berlin I consulted Chief Councillor-of-Health, Dr. Abarbanell, who advised me to have constructed some underwear with a fleece lining. I sought a weaver and had some underwear knitted, into the meshes of which were worked, "by hand," during the process of knitting, layers of loose lamb's wool."

Now, gentlemen, this device was a particularly happy one, in that all the requirements of a truly hygienic wear are provided for.

Porosity, warmth, absorbent powers and elasticity. With advice he set to work and perfected a modification of the knitting machine which incorporated into the meshes of the cloth loose lamb's wool. The samples presented speak for themselves as to its success. By the use of such a fabric, perspiration (unless excessive indeed) remains in the insensible state until it meets with the cooling influences externally in the cotton framework, the integument remaining dry, while the cotton back, as well as the linen shirt over it, may be "wringing wet." Exposure to cold draughts with such a suit does not chill the integument because the sudden increased evaporation occurs at a distance from the skin, and is separated from it by a layer of wool.

To test the soundness of the theory I submitted myself to a temperature of 115° F., under as nearly as possible the same atmospheric conditions, with the three chief winter suitings, and obtained the results in table below:

Jaros Hygienic Wear. "Nonotuck" Silk Suiting, heavy. Cartwright & Warner's

Weight after 8,020 7,867 10,840

" before exposure 7,010 grs. 7,140 9,600

Difference 1,010 grs. 727 grs. 1,240

Degree of absolute dryness of air 61.827 77.32 69.947

Temp. dry bulb therm 115° F 113° F 116°

Temp. wet bulb therm 9° 83° 88°

Sensation Warm but not sticky; outer surface damp; skin dry where wear touches; comfortable. Cooler than other wear; sticky; skin damp; comfortable. Sticky, clammy; wet through; uncomfortable.

From these experiments it is to be seen, that of all the perspiration exuded, the silk retained (by a small amount) the least; the hygienic wear the next, and the English woolen goods the most. Note, however, must be taken of two facts concerning the experiment with the silk clothing.

1st. The temperature was 2° F. lower than when testing the hygienic wear, and 8° than the English goods. Hence less perspiration was thrown out.

2d. There was a difference of 15.5° of absolute dryness of the atmosphere, hence evaporation took place more rapidly from the silk goods in the dryer atmosphere. The barometer remained almost stationary during the three days of observation.

On emerging from the hot room into one of a temperature of 70° F., an immediate chilling was felt with the silk goods; while the English gave a sensation of moisture and cold. The chilly sensation was not experienced with the woolen-lined hygienic wear.

CONCLUSIONS.

1st. That fleece-lined goods are warmest.

2d. Permit at least equal evaporation with the silk.